What's New in Men's Tailoring?

I've been spending the last week as an Editorial Assistant on The Financial Times's supplement How To Spend It mostly sub-editing and fact-checking new pieces of copy. One of the articles I worked on was about men's shirts, and it was really interesting - there is some really cool stuff out there!

As a female, I don't spend an awful lot of time thinking about men's clothing (unless it's arguing with my boyfriend over his tirelessly standard uniform of dark jeans and a jumper) so I decided to do a bit of research into tailoring, but not your standard boxy white shirt and navy tie - tailoring, dare I say it, with a twist.

Now I'm not going to lie, this stuff doesn't come cheap. This post is not for the bargain tailoring buyer or the vanilla dresser, but if you're looking for something a bit different but still completely wearable for the office - look no further.

From £630, Available from the Angelo Galasso store on Hans St, London

Angelo Galasso is a brand I've been introduced to in the past week but that I feel I should have been aware of before. In 1990 he launched his Polso Orologio Shirt (pictured) with signature exposed cuff which consists of an internally lined shirt cuff with a cut away panel to reveal the wearer's wrist watch. It was designed for the former Fiat's President, Gianni Agnelli, who had an allergy dictating that he wear his watch on top of his cuff.

Technicolor trousers optional
Shirt available from Issey Miyake MEN on Conduit St, London

Issey Miyake always designs brilliant, cutting-edge menswear but this time I'm drawn to a decidedly subtler garment. His plain white shirt with asymmetrical button-up front is genius. Worn folded back with a tie like in the show, this is the kind of shirt that looks equally good on the catwalk or under a Hugo Boss suit for the 9-5.

£1085, Hostem.co.uk

I was vaguely aware of Rick Owens before but more for his slouchy, men's casual wear rather than his tailoring. This blazer is again, fairly classic in silhouette and function but is a fun alternative to the standard central two-button fastening.

£320, MrPorter.com

At first glance, these Dolce & Gabanna trousers look like any other pair of smart trousers but with closer inspection, they have a slightly gathered waste and "paper bag" style crotch. I think you'd have to have a pretty specific style and body-type to carry them off but I just think they'd look great with some mahogany brogues and a pair of braces.

£245, MrPorter.com

Last in the apparel department is this white shirt from Valentino. Although classic in shape, it has very subtle, fabric covered studs on the  collars which add a little bit more interest to the eye.

Photo c/o HeartofLight.com
$120, NikolaiRose.com

This last piece is for the more budget-friendly but no less style-conscious suit-wearer. This sweet tie bar by American brand Nikolai Rose can add a little extra detail to your existing wardrobe rather than forking out for new clothes.

I'm flying to Spain on Monday for my final two weeks abroad during this summer holiday and plan to spend most of my time in a horizontal position by my pool and not staring at a computer screen - I'll be doing plenty of that when uni commences again in October. So forgive me if I'm a little absent.

New Jeans

I ordered this pair of jeans from ASOS late last week and because of the bank holiday and delays to the post, I am still waiting for them.

Like with all new purchases, I've envisaged in my mind the plethora of combinations I can create from my existing wardrobe and with a good pair of jeans, the opportunities are endless. The last time I bought jeans was two years ago, an excruciatingly skinny pair from Hollister. And they've served me well. I still love them. But I was in need of a little denim injection so have gone for a different shape this time. We'll see how it works out but as with any new relationship, I intend to be with them as much as possible.

With that in mind, instead of sitting peering out the window, waiting eagerly for the postman, I thought I would at least try to be constructive with my time and play around with some different looks.

Now all I need is to get them...

Jeans - A/Wear at ASOS, jumper - H&M, boots - H&M, necklace - Halleh at net-a-porter.com, clutch - Anya Hindmarch

Jeans as before, shirt - Topshop, bowling bag - Zara, gold cuff - ASOS, cork wedges - Christian Louboutin

Jeans as before, t-shirt - 3.1 Phillip Lim, Chelsea boots - ASOS, leather belt - Dolce & Gabbana, bag - Coach

Trend #10 - Underwear as Outerwear

We are finally at the end. Doesn't 10 days go quickly?! I hope you've enjoyed reading about this seasons trends and have found some inspiration for what you are going to be wearing this summer. So last, but by no means least...


Underwear as Outerwear

This trend has already swept through the fashion world all the way back from 2009. Celebrities were the first to take on the trend but now it is filtering down to the mass market. It is becoming more acceptable to wear a black bra, visible through a lace transparent top or an asset-enhancing corset although it is not for the faint hearted. Another style from this trend is the high-waisted hot pant made from a variety of fabrics from leather to sequined cotton.


Salvatore Ferragamo


D&G


Oscar De La Renta


Antonio Marras


Francesco Scognamiglio





Maria

Trend #5 - Psychedelic Wonderland

Psychedelic Wonderland

Technicolor fabrics, elements of dreams and a fantasy land, far from the restrictions of ordinary society. People want to get away from depressing themes like the economy and escape from reality. Abstract prints, combining trends, structurally shaped garments that still perform a function without compromising on the enchantment. This trend covers a wide range of fabrics, some with natural structure, like stiff cottons and some floaty and light-weight like chiffons.


Moschino


Stella McCartney


D&G


David Koma


Stella McCartney





Maria

Trend #2 - Heritage

Heritage

With the recession came the need for security. People are reverting back to days gone by, by making do and mending used garments (possibly second hand/vintage) to save money but also to satisfy their craving to feel safe and comfortable. Knitting needles and needle-point are hobbies coming back into fashion being taken on by the younger generation. But with people spending less on clothes, they are spending more money on accessories to update their look. An ethnic vibe is sweeping through jewellery – feathers on earrings, tiger tooth necklaces – subconsciously, people want to get back to a more simple and less materialistic way of life whilst still maintaining their own style. The Heritage trend holds the widest range of colours from deep reds to mustard and from navy to nudes. From the Heritage trend comes a subtle topic of equestrian. Horse motifs, swishy patterns, leather, and Indian inspired patterns are all apparent in both accessories and clothing. The most popular materials will be a blend of cotton and viscose for practicality, wools and denim.


D&G


Justin Giunta


Lanvin


Rodarte


Erdem


Thom Brown





Maria

Recycled - Trend Report S/S 2011 - Terre á Terre

Back in February last year, I posted a trend report that I wrote for my fashion design course. I wrote it months before the S/S 2011 catwalk shows and way before designers even start to hint at their coming season. Now however, spring is just round the corner and we all have a pretty good idea of what we'll be wearing when the weather starts to warm-up. Looking back at my trend report, I'm happy to say that most of my statements turned out to be true. Some are a little exhagerated and some trends are missing, but over all, for my first trend report, I don't think it was too bad at all. So in the spirit of recyling, I am going to re-post my trend report but correcting a few bits and also showing you what pieces I was actually envisioning/talking about, all those months ago.

My plan is to post a trend a day for the next 10 days so first up, we have...

Terre á Terre

Rich browns, olive greens blended with muted beige, camel and faded pastel colours. This is where the eco-fabrics really come into play. Designers are choosing recycled fabrics to help clear the conscience of the fashion world. Knits are being made from Merino wools, cashmere and cottons rather than synthetics and soft leathers and suedes are the chosen fabrics for jackets. Patterns in general are influenced by the beauty of flora and fauna and linings and subtle details will be adorned with bright floral patterns. A general vibe of ‘’floating’’ is brought to garments with fabrics like chiffon, silk and buttery satins. With a new attitude of ‘’save the planet’’, designers are taking inspiration from the Amazon rainforest which brings forth a whole spectrum of colours.


DKNY


Versus


Roberto Cavalli


Dolce and Gabbana


Dolce and Gabbana


If you want to read the original post, click here.




Maria