Phoebe Philo's latest collection for Celine ingeniously combines chic tailoring with an oversized silhouette - a look you're sure to want to wear to work next spring/summer.
Amoungst rumours of Phoebe Philo’s possible take over at Louis Vuitton if Marc Jacobs jumps ship to Dior, Celine’s show had all the right elements of Philo’s signature minimalism mixed with a spattering of fifties couture silhouettes. The set was understated; raw pine wood flooring covered by a U-shaped mirrored runway with seating either side, the music softly orchestral with a strong drumbeat running behind.
The collection began with coats galore: oversized trench coats in china white and rich burgundy worn with ribcage width belts, layered over matching A-line skirts and black embroidered slim trousers and single breasted, A-line coats with leg-of-mutton sleeves and large gold buttons.
A crime not to mention the trouser silhouettes, Celine's S/S 2011 shapes are from both ends of the spectrum. One slim, tailored, monochromatic and neatly pleated - for the show Philo accessorised these with wide skirt belts creating a sixties peplum shape. The second were a trapeze, cropped, ivory pair with buttery satin hems. These were echoed with variations featuring box pleats and with extending hip inserts.
Lastly were a sleek pair of slate grey, hipster, suit trousers with sheer net overlays and white sporty stripes down the side channeling a Spice Girl era Mel C. Although the silhouettes were a little theatrical, these classic-with-a-twist shapes are sure to be next season’s working wardrobe staple
As a contrast to the starched cottons and flowing chiffon, leather was featured in abundance. In evergreen, white, tan and burgundy it was seen as pleated A-line skirts, tunic tops and dresses – some with multiple colour leather paneling –and biker jackets with oodles of zips.
As well as the muted hues, a pop of colour was introduced in the form of white thin knits with pillar-box red graphic patterns teamed with elegant mid-length skirts in pleated white chiffon and cotton.
"It was all about playing with proportions." Philo explained backstage. And it's those oversized proportions that may not be easy for the average woman to wear. However, Philo guided the way by cinching in waists and strapping on a pair of super high, platform pumps complete with chunky ankle strap.
The show's crowning glory were the crystal encrusted chokers decorating emerald green shirt dresses and straight-jacket white shirts with peplum hemlines. The models carried in hand evergreen or tan leather hobo bags or petite briefcases in canary and pillar-box red. Others held envelope clutches in evergreen, ruby or white with contrasting piping. These colours were mirrored in knotted cuffs featuring a large metal ring making a low-key statement against the angular looks.
The model's hair was characteristically simple; straight, low parting and pulled back so it sat regimentally down the model’s backs. Their make-up was scarce with a flawless complexion and only a hint of clay brown eyeshadow.
Phoebe Philo really hit the ready-to-wear nail on the head with this collection and with claims that she'll continue on at Celine as well as designing at Louis Vuitton, the question on everybody's lips is: will she be able to keep it up?
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